Author Archives: Avery Sprouse

After a full day of travel on Thursday, I finally returned to Virginia. To get used to the time difference, I’m taking it easy for the first couple of days back here. Reflecting on my trip, I believe I’ve grown a great deal. Because I was doing so much during the month, I didn’t have much time to reflect on all the things I was experiencing. Now that I’m back home, however, I do.

Here are some of my thoughts.

Week 1: The first couple of days, I was pretty miserable due to the heat. I was just drenched in sweat every single day; I took showers morning and night. We also did a lot of walking this week, so I was pretty exhausted physically. It was a lot of getting used to new things and finding my footing around the Metro stops closest to the Cité Universitaire campus. The first couple of days, figuring out the Metro was confusing, and oftentimes the signage was hard to decipher (minus one point, Paris!).

We went to the Louvre on the second day of being in Paris, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I wanted to go back another time when I was less tired, though. As a lover of art history, it was a magical experience to see the paintings I’ve studied in class right in front of me! I felt overwhelmed by the number of people and often annoyed at tourists, even though at this point I definitely qualified as one.

The Latin Quarter was such a cool area, and I loved all the little alleys to explore. I found class the first couple of days enjoyable, but I was definitely underprepared for the amount of walking we did. I realized that going places with a large group outside of class was not for me; I needed an already stressful experience at times to be less stressful. It was at this point that I befriended some of the international students who were living at Cité U and learned the essentials about living there. Where the closest boulangerie was, the grocery store, etc. This helped a lot in creating a bit of a routine and a sense of normalcy in a place I had never been before.

The first weekend, Ben and I went dancing on the Seine with some of the Spanish kids we met while at Cité U. They taught me how to dance salsa properly, and we spent the evening just hanging out and people watching. We learned this game of trying to step on a beer bottle from the top without breaking it. Spoiler alert: the bottle didn’t last very long. The nightlife in Paris is spectacular; it doesn’t matter what day of the week it is, people will still enjoy each other’s company, have a couple of drinks, laugh, dance, and listen to music. I’m craving that in the U.S., but maybe I just haven’t found the right place for that scene quite yet.

It’s funny looking back on the first week, knowing what I know now about the city. It gives me the same feeling I have when I look back on my first week of college, that time of giving in to the experiences and learning by doing. There is no other way to do it.

Week 2:

Week 2 was more bearable in terms of the temperature, which made the class expeditions much better. This week, we visited Le Marais, the Luxembourg Gardens (which I had gone to many times before because… duh?), the Eiffel Tower, and Bercy, among other places.

I was starting to get the hang of living here, understanding how to communicate with people, although I didn’t speak the language very well, and take in the natural beauty of Paris. Parc de Bercy was incredibly gorgeous. I find that I feel more connected to nature than I do to cities, and this visit further solidified that knowledge about myself. Some of my favorite experiences from this trip are lounging about in different parks around Paris.

I also had my second real club experience in my life going to Silencio with Ben. It was this disco-tech sort of music with a mix of DJs, but it was super fun! I can get down to a lot of different music. It was a very out-of-body experience, though, but that’s on brand for David Lynch. You had no idea what time it was or where you were; you just knew the music was good and people were having a great time.

We met this young couple who offered us VIP tickets, and we got to dance with them behind the DJ booth, which is where famous people and friends of famous people dance. There were no famous people there that night, though. We weren’t that lucky. We stayed out all night and caught the first train back to the dorms. Funnily enough, that Monday was Bastille Day and I stayed in, which you would think I’d party the other way around. I just didn’t want to be around a lot of people. Vive la France, though!

Week 3:

Musee d’Orsay was wonderful, but it made me think about how frustrating it was to try and see the artwork due to the number of people there. Have they never heard of timed tickets or limiting visitors?? Even in small museums, it was like this. I can somewhat I can understand because of the sheer number of people who want to visit, but it’s nearly impossible to see anything when you go, which defeats the purpose in my mind.

It was funny, some of the places we had gone to as a class I had been to multiple times before. For example, Les Halles. I had spent quite a bit of time there going shopping, but it was really cool to learn about its history after I had become familiar with it.

The Catacombs were an incredible experience, and I was surprised to find out that many of the students I had met who had been living in Paris for a while had never been! I would recommend it to everyone who feels comfortable going. It’s such a humanizing experience, and the quotes carved into stone have stuck with me. It’s a reminder that death is a truth shared among all and is inevitable. We spend so much time fighting each other just to end up in the same place, while the planet takes collateral damage. Heavy stuff, but worth it.

I loved visiting Musee Jacquemart-Andre to see Artemisia Gentileschi’s work, but I have a separate blog post all about that experience. You should check it out!

Week 4:

This week might be my favorite of the entire trip. We went to the Army Museum and spent nearly the whole day there, visited Montmartre, my favorite district, and had a crazy weekend full of travel.

This week, I felt very comfortable getting around the city and going on side adventures outside of class. What’s funny is I found the French food just okay. It was good, but I much preferred the food from other cultures because of how flavorful everything was. Don’t get me wrong, the French pastries were incredible, but the regular meals had much more emphasis on the flavor of the food itself, not really any additional seasonings.

Montmartre was gorgeous, I love the bohemian feel of it and how artsy it is. Musee de Montmartre is one of my favorites that I visited. I especially love the recreation of Suzanne Valadon’s atelier-apartment. Wandering through was such an amazing experience, and I love how the museum is set up. It was also really cool to see the juxtaposition between the rapid industrialization of the turn of the century and the appreciation for the natural landscape of Montmartre in the artwork there.

I also thoroughly enjoyed the perfume museum and having the opportunity to make my own! It’s an underrated museum experience, and the guide was incredible. She was very knowledgeable on the subject and made things very clear without dumbing it down.

The weekend trip was crazy busy, but so much fun. A day trip to Amiens (the north), a day trip to Marseille (the south), and then a day at Disneyland, all in one weekend. I think I’ve learned to take opportunities that are presented to me, and let go of the need to plan mentality that I often have. A lot of really cool things I did, I just happened to stumble upon without any planning. It is smart to plan things in terms of transportation, though.

Week 5:

The scavenger hunt was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. I had so much fun running around and taking silly photos. It was well worth the weird looks we got the entire time, though we did get some laughs, too!

The last day before leaving Paris, I took it easy. I went to a trinket store near the Luxembourg Gardens I had seen online, and had some crepes! I feel satisfied with everything I got to see, so I didn’t feel the need to run around and wear myself out before a day of heavy travel.

Overall, I had a life-changing experience while being in Paris and enjoyed it very much. I did realize, though, the pride I do have for being an American despite the current state of the government and social divide we are experiencing as a society. There is so much beauty in the cultural exchange here, and that should not be stripped away.

Bye for now!

While visiting France, I’ve had the opportunity to try some pretty amazing food. Therefore, I feel the need to dedicate an entire blog post to it. The first food I tried was technically the dry cereal I had when I nearly passed out due to getting overheated, which the nice girl working at the front desk ran to get from the kitchen… but that isn’t as glamorous as some of the others.

Ham, egg, and cheese galette from this incredible crepe spot in Le Marais! This was served with cider in the cutest little cups I’ve seen, shared over some good conversation with my professors.

This meal was one of the first ones we had as a class at this restaurant called Cafe du Rendez Vous. I thought it was an interesting choice to order a burger at the first nice French restaurant we were treated to, though… I ordered a burrata pasta with pesto!

The charcuterie spread we had for breakfast early on in the trip. This meal was shared with some of the international students who were staying here while finishing their master’s degrees. Ben made this spread.

I can confirm this was the best ice cream I’ve probably ever had. I got chocolate and coffee, a classic combo that I tend to go for. The flavors just pair so well together! It was also very hot that day, so it was a much-needed cold treat.

This cappuccino had a very impressive amount of foam on top. It had a really nice vanilla flavor as well. You know, I usually start my day with coffee, but I think I’m going to adopt drinking it after my meals like the Europeans do.

Here’s the gelato I had after our class visit to the Army Museum. This particular gelato shop is famous for its rose petal-shaped scoops. I found it hard to eat because it melted quite fast, but it was pretty alright flavor-wise. I stuck with my notorious combination.

This is the spread of pastries I had for breakfast one day. Yes, that is two different types of croissa – ahem… one croissant and a pain au chocolat – in case you were wondering. I’ve likely had enough carbs to feed a family of four for at least a couple of days on this trip, but hey… when in Rome, am I right?

This glorious dish was the Mapo Tofu I had from a nice spot in Chinatown, just a couple of stops away from where we’re staying. It was served with a peach mint tea that was quite refreshing when paired with the spicy meal.

This is the burrata pizza I got from what I will now dub “The Pizzeria with the Awesome Bathroom” because it had a literal rocketship in it for kids to play in and stalls that made you feel like you were in a Star Wars movie when you peed. Oh yeah, and the pizza was incredible.

These photos were totally worth the weird stares I got while taking them. It’s the 21st century, we should be used to people taking photos of their food now, right?! As they say, the camera eats first. ‘Til next time!

Today is Monday, July 28. This past weekend, I spent the entire time visiting some truly amazing places!

Friday was spent in Amiens with the class, which is located in the north of France. It’s known for its canals and unique architecture that is quite different from that seen in Paris. It feels more inspired by the UK, which makes sense because it’s right across the English Channel.

Here’s a funky building with some cool stained glass! I also love the wood shutters and door.

One of my favorite parts of this trip was getting to see the Cathédrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens, which was, in my opinion, wayyyy more impressive than the Notre-Dame de Paris. The amount of detail within the entrance is highly impressive, as well as the extremely tall vaulted ceilings.

The religious figures stepping on people piqued mine and Ben’s interest, and after a quick Google search, I found out that the figures being squashed are representations of sin.

I was also curious about the number of depictions of the beheading of Saint John the Baptist I was seeing in this church, but then I saw the reliquary dedicated to him and researched it more. His skull was located there, but it is now on display in a museum in Munich.

Here’s a cool view of what some of the canals looked like! It had a particular… odor… but that’s expected due to the still water.

I tried poutine for the first time and loved it, then we went to the Jules Verne house museum. It was very heavily nautical themed (of course) and was cool to walk through. I especially loved the replica of a boat on one of the top floors.

Saturday, Naomi, Ben, and I woke up early to catch a train to Marseille, which is in the south of France. Naomi had a tattoo appointment with an artist she had been following for quite a while, which was the reason for going! The ride there was gorgeous, and I got to watch the sun rise over small French villages that looked straight out of Beauty and the Beast.

When we arrived, we walked around for a little bit in search of food. We settled on a nice restaurant in the Le Panier area near the port.

This is the view coming out of the train station in Marseille!

After filling our bellies, we decided to check out the Palais Longchamp, which is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. It houses both the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée d’Histoire Naturelle (Museum of Natural History). This grotto was a nice spot to hang out while waiting for the tattoo parlor to open up.

When Naomi was settled at the tattoo parlor, Ben and I split off to find somewhere to swim. We decided on the closest beach to the city, Plage des Catalans. The public transport gets an A+, by the way. 5 euros for a day pass for the metro, bus, and tram? Amazing.

The water was a gorgeous aqua blue and very pleasant to swim in. I couldn’t believe I was swimming in the Mediterranean Sea! It was very fun to dive into the waves; it reminded me of being a kid. It would be really fun to boogie board here, but I guess the French aren’t on that yet.

Something that amazed me was that there were many topless women there. The female body is sexualized so much, so it was nice to be around humans who are comfortable in their skin.

Sunday was spent at Disneyland Paris! I’d never been to any Disney park before, so I was ecstatic. We did everything we could, starting with getting a snack, of course, then Hyperspace Mountain. After that rush, we went to he much calmer It’s A Small World, which I loved. Slightly creepy and reminiscent of Willy Wonka, but the message was nice.

We then got lost in Alice’s Curious Labyrinth and rode the carousel. The top of the Red Queen’s palace had some nice views of the park. After that, we went to the Pirates of the Caribbean ride, which was epic. The animatronics were so realistic! Following this was Haunted Mansion.

We then looked at the dragon under the castle while it poured rain. On the bright side, this caused the line for Big Thunder Mountain to go down significantly, allowing us to go on without waiting for an hour. After this, we ate some lunch, then walked around to settle our stomachs before doing more intense rides.

We rode the Indiana Jones ride back-to-back twice! After Indiana Jones, we explored a bit more and decided to go back to the Star Wars area to do the Star Tours ride, which took a photo of me and said I was the rebel spy! By this time, I was pretty exhausted. We considered staying for the fireworks, but ultimately decided not to.

At around 10:15, we went back home.

Needless to say, this was a very eventful weekend for Ben, Naomi, and me, but it was the best time ever!!!

On Sunday, July 20, I visited the Musée Jacquemart-André to see the work of my favorite artist, Artemisia Gentileschi. I was lucky to catch this exhibition when I did, as it only runs through August 2025!

The visit started with exploring the mansion, located just down the road from the Arc de Triomphe. Built at the end of the 19th century, the mansion belonged to art collectors Edouard Andre and his wife, Nelie Jacquemart. The mansion currently houses temporary exhibitions and authentic 19th-century rooms, including an indoor garden, private bedrooms, lounges, and lavish hallways.

Pictured here is the “Tapestry Room,” and you can see why!

After exploring the main rooms in the estate, I sauntered up the grand spiral staircase, which led me to the beginning of the art exhibition. Allow me to nerd out, because Gentileschi was a badass.

Artemisia Gentileschi (1593-1653) was an Italian painter who is considered one of the most accomplished Baroque artists. She was introduced to art at an early age by her father, Orazio Gentileschi, who was also a famous artist. At just 17 years old, she created Susanna and the Elders, which immediately got her recognized for her exceptional painting skills. Despite living in an era where female artists were generally not accepted, she was the first woman to attend the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, Italy.

Susanna and the Elders, 1610, oil on canvas

In 1611, she was sexually assaulted by her father’s colleague. Following a harrowing trial, her assailant was found guilty and sentenced to exile. Following these horrific events in her life, Gentileschi poured herself into her art, often painting heroines who triumphed over male figures, as demonstrated in her pieces Judith Beheading Holofernes and Jael and Sisera.

Judith Beheading Holofernes, 1620, oil on canvas

Gentileschi was inspired by biblical and mythological stories, most of which center women. Some art historians claim Gentileschi’s art is semi-autobiographical, as she often painted female figures in her likeness. She is also known for her depictions of the female nude, using her own body as a reference. This brought a woman’s touch to a painting tradition dominated by men, intentionally flipping the script and thus solidifying herself as a key figure in feminist art.

Venus and Cupid (Sleeping Venus), 1623, oil on canvas

Her technical mastery of portraiture, refined use of texture and color, and realistic skin tones demonstrate her extraordinary skill and surpass that of another famous Baroque artist whom she studied, Caravaggio. When comparing Caravaggio’s depiction of Judith slaying Holofernes and Gentileschi’s, hers is much more realistic, highlighting the agency of the women and the blood spurting from Holofernes’ neck. Gentileschi also understands that it would take a lot of power for a significantly smaller woman to kill an extremely large army general such as Holofernes, unlike the male artists who depict Judith meekly stabbing him.

One marriage, daughter, and love affair later, Gentileschi ended up in Naples, Italy, for the last 25 years of her life, continuing her work. She also spent some time in London, England, at the invitation of King Charles I, for whom her father was once the court painter. Information about her death is not well-known, but her legacy is extremely relevant.

Self Portrait as Saint Catherine of Alexandria, 1615-1617, oil on canvas

Out of the numerous self-portraits she made, I believe this one encapsulates the spirit of Artemisia Gentileschi the best. She depicts herself as Saint Catherine of Alexandria, who was a Christian saint martyred in the 4th century. She leans on a broken wheel with iron spikes, which was the wheel on which the saint was bound and tortured, just like Gentileschi was tortured to prove her verity during the trial following her assault. Despite the horrendous acts she endured, she is resilient, furrowing her brow in determination and holding her head high. She juxtaposes her firm expression with delicately holding the martyr’s palm, representing triumph over suffering.

Arrête! C’est ici l’empire de la mort! Stop! This is the empire of the dead!

These are the words carved into the entrance of the ossuary in the Catacombs of Paris. An unsettling warning, informing those who may proceed that they are about to witness 6 million people buried in this maze-like system. The first section of the path through the Catacombs is just carved limestone stone and rock tunnels, sometimes tapering off to other pathways blocked by iron gates. Halfway through, however, my class and I came upon stacks and stacks of human skulls and femurs, carefully placed in patterns. This pile of bones was even made to look like a heart. Cute… I think?

Walking through the belly of Paris was a cool feeling, both literally and figuratively, as the Catacombs stay around 64 degrees Ferenheit year-round. The path felt like something out of an Indiana Jones movie, and I was prepared to shove my classmates out of the way if a skeleton started chasing me. The way the skulls were stacked gave the feeling that you were being watched as you traversed into the bowels of Paris, deep below the traffic and beautiful Haussmanian architecture.

At first, it was hard for me to grasp the fact that these are real human remains, especially because there is no identification for each person like there is in a traditional cemetery. Honestly, there are just far too many bones to even try to identify them individually. However, there are markers along the way stating where the bodies were exhumed from and the date. Many of these bones came from already established graves dating as far back as the Medieval era. This was to combat the major health issues linked to cemeteries in the late 18th century because a lot of dead people + improper burial = disease.

One aspect of this trip to the Catacombs that I particularly enjoyed was reading the quotes on stone plaques throughout the tunnels. Both French and Latin words decorate the space, each discussing death in some way. It allowed for contemplation and space to understand the gravity of death, especially in a space where so many people are buried. The quotes range from being calmer about dying, accepting it as an inevitable fate, to being quite frightened. I think this reflects how people view this aspect of humanity on a spectrum and invites people to consider their own feelings towards death and the afterlife.

Here are some of my favorites.

So all things pass upon the earth
Spirit, beauty, grace, talent
Ephemeral as a flower
Tossed by the slightest breeze

What enclosures are open! What narrow spaces
Between these walls hold the dust of races!
It is in these places of oblivion, it is among these tombs
That time and death come to cross their scythes.
So many dead piled and pressed under the Earth!
Numbers here mean nothing; the crowd is lonely.

But the sting of death is sin

Wherever you go, death follows (as) a body’s shadow

On Tuesday, July 15, the class took a trip to the Musee d’Orsay. As someone particularly interested in the art movements that this museum covers, it was at the top of my list of places to visit while in Paris. The Louvre, massive in scale, is quite an overwhelming space with barely enough room to move, let alone see the artwork. I found d’Orsay much more compelling in terms of the kinds of artworks it houses and the design of the space itself.

Here is a selection of my favorite pieces I saw and why they mean so much to me!

Bal du moulin de la Galette, Auguste Renoir, 1876

This Renoir piece is one of my favorite artworks of all time. I even have the sticker version of it on my laptop! I love the way the light peeks through the trees, illuminating the figures as they move around. A moment of joy, frozen in time. The movement of the people dancing is vivid. The sharpness of the foreground and the gradual blurring of those in the background provide a distinction of depth, the illusion of one actually being there, witnessing the scene with their own eyes.

Le dejeuner sur l’herbe, Edouard Manet, 1863

This piece appears to be mythological, though it is in a modern setting. Perhaps it is the way the man on the right’s hand is positioned that references Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, or the way the nude woman is posed, showing her curves, that invokes such thoughts. It is also likely that Manet just wanted to paint some skin amongst the dark background, contrasting it with the fully clothed men. I also spy a reference to still life in the food sprawled across a billowing blanket. You sly dog, Manet. I see what you’re doing!

London, the Houses of Parliament, Sunlight Opening in Fog, Claude Monet, 1904

In this painting, the Houses of Parliament in London appear like an apparition, something you have to stare at for quite a while to conceive. The shape of the structure is a shadow of blue cascading over the orange and purple background. The lines designating between water, land, and sky disappear, dissolving into each other, leaving the viewer dazed. Sometimes with impressionist artworks, I like to squint to blur the brushstrokes. It allows me to focus on the most important details.

The Water Lily Pond, Claude Monet, 1899

I was particularly excited to see this Monet piece in person. The photo capabilities of an iPhone 11 do not do it justice. Monet decided to put this bridge over a pond in Giverny without the intent of painting it; he planted the water lilies and other vegetation for fun. Soon, his gardens became overwhelmed with plant growth, which served as inspiration for him. I mean, how could it not? What I love about this painting, and Monet’s work in general, is that it’s essentially just paint splashed on the surface with loose brushwork, a main criticism of the Impressionist movement. But it becomes real. What the viewer sees in a great Impressionist painting is the reality of what the painter saw, too.

Photo taken behind the Medici Fountain, a hidden gem!

Out of all the places I’ve visited thus far in Paris, I find that I keep returning to the Jardin du Luxembourg. I’ve been four times in the past two weeks. As I wander along the graveled pathways – often with a pebble stuck in my shoe – I can’t help but imagine all the different people across time who have also visited the garden.

The garden doesn’t seem to change, even though the world does. I think of the families of people imprisoned there during the revolution, trying to communicate with their loved ones. I think of all the artists painting en plein air the same images that people take with their iPhones. People strolling through the garden, enjoying the same activities that have spanned across decades. I think of how many people have been proposed to or broken up with here. Or how many Parisian children grew up playing in the same playground? How many people have been pooped on by a pigeon here?

Le Faun dansant, Eugène Louis Lequesne, 1850.

I’d like to think that if this garden could talk, it would whisper. Like the wind through its leaves, it would speak in a hushed tone of the friends who picnicked here, the first dates, the elders who play pétanque.

Maybe it would talk about me.

My favorite people I’ve met in Paris (so far):

The American friends who studied abroad in Italy 30 years ago. The man was wearing a gorgeous outfit, consisting of a yellow skirt, layered necklaces, and a billowy top. The woman wore a white shirt and red lipstick. She had a pretty smile. It made me imagine me and Ben in 30 years, still close friends, sharing our adventure stories with whoever we can.

The group of Spanish students and their sweet friends studying here. We laughed about silly cultural differences, went dancing along the Seine, and shared some delicious meals. They taught us a Spanish card game. Some of them are leaving soon, and I’ll miss them when they go.

The American and Canadian kids who also participating in a study abroad program for the month with MICEFA. They’re all very stylish! I would like to get to know them more.

The bartenders at the nearby bar who have been extremely nice to a group of Americans who don’t really know what they’re doing quite yet. They’re also very beautiful. The man seemed surprised when I told him how much I appreciated his kindness.

All the elderly French people. They’re annoyed all the time, I love it. It doesn’t matter who you are or what you do, you’ll get the frustrated French sigh and eyeroll. Maybe a few complaints under their breath if you’ve really peeved them. Nobody is safe.

My first week across the pond is complete! Although there was a bit of a rough start (nearly fainting in my first 15 minutes here, sweating enough to fill a bucket, experiencing exhaustion, and lacking a fan, for example), I’m starting to feel like I’m getting the hang of things.

Studying abroad is always something I’ve wanted to do, and I am going to soak in every moment while I can. The U.S. is a shit-show (pardon my French) and makes me spiral into an existential crisis every time I open a news article, but having this experience is giving me a new perspective on what I enjoy, what I want more of, and what I think can change within the United States. I crave community and FUN! I’ve already made friends with some of the other students who reside in the building, which has been a great help with finding cool places to go to, like a nearby bar or dancing on the Seine. I am so glad I’m not a homebody.

As for the language, I’m picking up French faster than I thought I would. Before this trip, I spent a bit of time studying the basics, and I think my pronunciation is pretty okay! At a perfume booth, the attendant thought Ben and I were French at first, although he was probably just trying to get us to buy something (which I did).

Nothing compares to the food I’ve had here. The BEST pastries in the world. There is just so much more care and an emphasis on rich flavor with simplicity. If it’s done well, there is no need for all the additives they put in American food.

I am truly having the best time.

Ciao, ciao!

My name is Avery Sprouse, and I am a current undergraduate student at the University of Mary Washington.
I love learning about art and
history, spending time with my friends,
reading, playing guitar, and cuddling my
two dogs!

This July, I will be studying abroad in
Paris, France. Follow along on my journey!